(China Daily) Elaborate costume drama serves up intrigue, style and a compelling storyline for global audiences.
Pearls are typically used for jewelry such as necklaces, bracelets or rings. However, in the Song Dynasty (960-1279), high-society ladies adorned their faces with these precious orbs, not for any practical purpose, but simply to enhance their beauty with a unique charm.
The once-trendy fashion has been revived in the costume drama, The Double, marking actress Wu Jinyan's return to a revenge-themed tale after the phenomenal 2018 hit Story of Yanxi Palace.
In a standout episode, Wu, starring in the lead role of Xue Fangfei, partakes in a jili, or hair-pinning ceremony. Tracing its origins to the Western Zhou Dynasty (c. 11th century-771 BC), families would host this ritual for daughters reaching 15 years of age, or 20 if still unwed, elegantly coiling their hair into a bun and securing it with a hairpin.
The scene showcases the ceremony-participating female guests — mostly from high-ranking families — bedecked with pearls on their cheeks and foreheads, sparking a flurry of lively discussions online.
Since its debut on the streaming platform Youku in early June, the 40-episode series has quickly soared to become the most-watched show on the platform, emerging as one of the biggest dark horses of the summer.
Following its successful premiere on the Chinese mainland, it also became the most-watched series on Netflix in Taiwan on June 18.
Being streamed on Netflix, it expanded its reach to a global audience across around 200 countries and regions. Moreover, it has been streamed on some major online platforms in North America, Japan, South Korea, Malaysia, Vietnam and Singapore.
With its well-built sets and elaborate costumes, as well as exquisite makeup, the drama has garnered significant popularity in markets from home and abroad. It became the second most-viewed drama on the streaming website moa-play.com in South Korea on June 19.
Set against an alternative historical backdrop, the tale follows the vengeful exploits of Xue, the daughter of a county magistrate framed for adultery by her husband and his scheming family.
Buried alive as punishment, Xue is rescued by the eldest daughter of a high-ranking official who has been confined to a convent-like retreat by her jealous stepmother for 10 years. Assuming her savior's identity, the female protagonist infiltrates the elite circles of the imperial court, unraveling mysteries and plotting revenge while ultimately winning the love of a man worthy of entrusting the rest of her life.
Scriptwriter-director Ma Shige, who co-directs the series alongside Lyu Haojiji and Bai Yunmo, mentions that her experience in helming the 2021 short drama, Palace: Devious Women, comprising 30 episodes of 6 minutes each, captured the attention of Yu Zheng, a veteran TV show producer.
As one of the most rapidly expanding sectors in China's entertainment landscape, the market share of online micro-dramas reached 37.39 billion yuan ($5.15 billion) in 2023, marking a staggering 267.65 percent increase compared to the previous year, according to industry analyst iiMedia Research.
Recognizing that the younger generation of Chinese audiences is more inclined toward short dramas in this fast-paced society driven by the internet, Ma, who is regarded by Yu as a seasoned professional familiar with the psychological elements that engage the audience quickly, was invited to join in writing the initial version of the script for The Double.
"If you aim to strike a chord with the audience, you must imbue the lead character with a sense of realism," Ma says.
In the show, Xue is not an omnipotent heroine. She is clever and determined but also vulnerable and feels helpless upon discovering that her father is mentally unwell and her younger brother is imprisoned. Both incidents are orchestrated by her husband, who is compelled to commit these crimes under the orders of a villainous princess, who desires to marry him herself.
"When the audience witnesses the female lead gradually bringing down the villains, they will acclaim the triumph of justice and consequently experience a sense of relief," Ma says, speaking of the successful formula.
China's extensive history and cultural heritage, developed over millennia, has provided a rich source of inspiration for the artists of The Double in designing settings, props and costumes.
In preparation for showcasing the elegant "pearl makeup" inspired by Song Dynasty fashion, the production team researched historical and archival materials, including portraits of empresses from the reigns of emperors Huizong and Qinzong of the Song Dynasty, as well as works by renowned Song Dynasty painters like Liu Songnian and Zhao Boju.
"Noblewomen of that era utilized a fish bladder-based adhesive to affix pearls to their foreheads and cheeks, embodying a trend that sought to achieve a refined and captivating makeup aesthetic," she explains.
The designers also found inspiration in the diverse aesthetic styles spanning different eras — from the period of the Tang Dynasty (618-907) through the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms (907-960) to the Song Dynasty. They infused vibrant colors favored by high society in these eras, such as blue, green, purple, orange and red, into the designs for the sets and costumes, while also featuring traditional crafts, such as embroidery, filigree and velvet flowers, in the plot, according to Ma.
Yang Le, the producer of the series, says that the overseas feedback for The Double exemplifies the surging global appeal of Chinese period dramas in recent years.
The latest available statistics from the National Radio and Television Administration show that up to 80 percent of the country's exported visual and audio projects in 2023 were dramas, with costume dramas remaining one of the most popular genres for international audiences.
"By intricately blending traditional cultures, history and Eastern aesthetics, these popular dramas have sparked profound curiosity among international viewers, acting as a cultural bridge to introduce the richness of Chinese heritage to a global audience," she says.
In the costume drama, Xue wears "pearl makeup" inspired by Song Dynasty (960-1279) fashion.
Xue with her cousin, Ye Shijie (played by actor Chen Xinhai). 
The period drama's lavish costumes draw inspiration from aesthetics of various eras, including the Tang Dynasty (618-907) and the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms (907-960).
