Staying at a luxury resort, I never imagined I’d find myself scouring a wet market in search of seafood for dinner, but that’s exactly what I did one morning while lodging at Alila Diwa Goa, a luxury resort in Majorda, South Goa. Part of Alila’s approach to acquainting guests with the local way of life is a tour of the wet market in Margao, which allows guests to learn about the people of Goa and their cuisine.
Words: Beverly Rodrigues
Fishing is a major industry in this coastal state and seafood accounts for a large part of the Goan diet. Also, since coconuts are in abundance, many of the mainstays of Goan cuisine make use of this extremely versatile tropical fruit. Along the tour, I visited stalls selling sole, king fish, sardines, seabass and Bombay duck, and even picked up Goan toddy vinegar, fermented in an old rum bottle. Having selected the freshest pomfret, tiger prawns and mud crabs, I returned to the resort for a cooking class where the bounty was whipped up into local specialties like Goan prawn curry, a piquant offering that draws on coriander seeds, turmeric, cumin, coconut and dried chillies for its rich zest; fragrant crab xec xec, cooked in a spiced coconut gravy flavoured with poppy seeds, cloves, black peppercorns and candlenut; green pea foogath, a simple stir-fry tossed with grated coconut and curry leaves; and pomfret rechado, a spicy and tangy dish prepared using toddy vinegar, a common ingredient among Goa’s Catholic community. It’s always lovely when resorts offer a little something extra that allows guests to marinate in the flavours of a particular destination.
But if cooking isn’t your thing, Alila’s range of restaurants – including Spice Studio with its regional Indian cuisine, and the all-day dining Vivo where a la carte menus creatively reflect the bounty of the season – serve up decadent offerings, minus the work! Must tries include ambika paneer tikka, cottage cheese charred to sweet, smoky perfection and served with mint chutney, and Goan fish curry, a creamy curry prepared with the local modso fish and pure coconut milk. If, like me, you opt to stay at The Diwa Club, an exclusive little enclave planned as ‘a resort within a resort’, you’ll also have access to the private dining venue, Bistro, where healthy cereals and fruits are wheeled out to you by the chefs on duty, and guests can savour local all-day breakfast specialties such as Goan frittata with delightful chunks of pork chorizo, and puri bhaji, deep fried whole wheat bread served with potato curry. Dinner options at this chilled out eatery overlooking the Diwa Club pool include such delights as sweet and thick lobster tail cappuccino, hearty homemade ribbon pasta with tiger prawns in a lovely tomatoey gravy, and smoked lamb chops on a bed of barley risotto. For a local touch, order chicken xacuti (popular Goan curry, similar to xec xec) served with a Goan bread called poee and a smoky aubergine paste called baingan bharta, and wash this down with local lychee wine.
But, of course, dining like royalty isn’t the only reason to stay at the Diwa Club. The gorgeous suites here, set in a semi-circle overlooking the private Diwa pool and open air Jacuzzi, are modern in design, with a lot of mirror work to amplify the spacious setting, which includes a king-sized bed, an L-shaped sofa for lounging and an LED TV. The sleek bathroom that’s size-able enough to tap dance in offers a walk-in wardrobe, vanity, His and Her sinks, and at its very centre, a large oval tub that beckons for a steamy soak. It’s tempting to stay cocooned in this luxurious abode, but do wander the pretty grounds of Alila. Courtyards open onto little verdant spaces where tropical blooms thrive and emerald green ponds reflect the swaying palms above.
While at Alila, a soothing ayurvedic massage at Spa Alila is a must. The moment I stepped into the spa complex, complete with walkways over quiet lotus ponds, I felt a gentle calm. The vibe there was just so tranquil and I appreciated that each spa villa was designed as a self-contained unit with its own steam room and outdoor shower set in a lush garden, offering couples privacy and a little space for playful frolicking.
I opted for uzhichil, a traditional Ayurvedic massage that’s a fabulous salve for weary travellers. Using warm medicated oil, my therapist kneaded my tired muscles using long strokes and firm pressure, putting me into a blissful coma. It didn’t hurt that this massage is also reputed to be good for anti-ageing, circulation, fatigue relief and skin revitalisation. When I awakened from my hour-long massage, I stepped out into the private garden for a cool moonlight shower – a soothing end to a rejuvenating stay.
ALILA DIWA GOA
Address:48/10 Village Majorda, Adao Waddo, Salcete, Goa
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